Smyril Line: M/f Norröna
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Above: The pre-2003 Norröna loaded cars and passengers in Tórshavn.

Eating

You're unlikely to starve on the Norröna unless you're short of money, in which case you might want to bring a stash of rolls, peanut butter, and fruit on board.

The cafeteria has booths and a reasonable assortment of drinks, snacks, and mealtime entrées. Your bill can add up quickly if you have a healthy appetite, so think twice before reaching for an extra roll or side dish.

The dining room is more expensive but may be a better value if you can afford it. Its pičce de résistance is the Danish-style cold table, which is similar to a Swedish smorgasbord. On your first visit to the buffet, you load up a plate with various types of herring, salmon, cold lamb, salads, etc. When you're ready for the main course, you take another plate and fill it with meatballs, sausages, roast beef, fried fish, potatoes, and whatever else is being served that night. Desserts and cheeses wrap up the meal.

Breakfast in the dining room is also buffet-style, with a hefty array of rolls, breads, pastries, cheeses, cold meats, yogurt, and cereal. Splurge at least once on the buffet breakfast during your voyage; it's an experience that shouldn't be missed, especially if (like me) you're addicted to Danish pastries that put their American imitators to shame.

TIP: Although the Norröna is equipped with stabilizers, the North Atlantic can be rough at times and you may find yourself reaching for a seasick bag. Think twice before eating heavily if you're inclined to motion sickness. (There's no shame in wearing an anti-seasickness patch, as many experienced passengers do.)

Drinking

The ship's bar usually has a small but enthusiastic crowd. Like Norway and Iceland, the Faroes try to discourage drinking through high alcohol taxes and repressive liquor laws--neither of which apply to ships at sea. Put a booze-starved Faroe Islander in the Norröna's bar, and he can swig more in two or three days than he'd drink at home in several months. (When I was on the Norröna, I met two fishermen who were drunk for the two-day journey between Tórshavn and Hanstholm. They confided that they were on a booze cruise and planned to drink for the return journey as well.)

Other information

See page 3 for information on fares, special deals with other ferry lines, related articles, and a link to Smyril Line's official Web site.

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