The Scotch Whisky Experience

from Edinburgh, Scotland

ABOVE: The Whisky Barrel Ride. INSET BELOW: The Scotch Whisky Experience entrance on the Royal Mile, the Blender's Ghost, tasting malt whiskies in the Amber Bar, and the Shop with its 270 whiskies.

Malt whisky is Scotland's national beverage. No one knows when or how it was invented, though Carol P. Shaw--author of Collins gem: Whisky--suggests that whisky's distillation may have evolved "simply as a means of using up barley which would otherwise have been ruined after a wet harvest." If she's correct, we can thank Scotland's wet weather for uisge beatha, the Gaelic name for acqua vitae or the "water of life."

For those of us who regard Scottish malt with the same affection that the French feel toward wine or the Germans give to beer, The Scotch Whisky Experience (a.k.a. the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre) in Edinburgh is no less a place of pilgrimage than the wine caves of Beaune or the beer halls of Munich. (Mind you, it's equally geared to tourists, but don't let that force you into abstinence.)

The Whisky Tour

The centerpiece of The Scotch Whisky Experience is The Whisky Tour, which offers a Disneyesque introduction to Scotland's favorite spirit. The tour begins with a wee dram of whisky in a tasting glass that you can box up afterwards and take home as a souvenir. (Kids get juice and a balloon in lieu of booze.)

Next, you'll see a short film on the making of Scotch whisky, view a model distillery, and hear a lively talk by "The Blender's Ghost" about how whiskies are blended. The last stop on the tour is the Whisky Barrel Ride (see photo at top of page), which takes you past a series of dioramas that cover 300 years of Scotch whisky history.

If your knowledge of Scotch whisky is limited, the tour is a good if slightly corny introduction to the history, art, and science of Hibernian spirits. However, if you're already an aficionado or you've toured a distillery, you may want to save your money for a tasting session in the bar.

Amber Restaurant and Bar

At the end of the Whisky Tour, you're invited to visit the Amber Bar, where you can choose from more than 270 blended and single-malt whiskies, Scotch Whisky liqueurs, and cocktails.

For example, you might try Glenmorangie from the Highlands (Scotland's best-selling single malt), Highland Park from Orkney (with its hints of salt air and heather peat), a dram of smoky Laphroig from the Isle of Islay, or The Famous Grouse (Scotland's most popular blended whisky). Better yet, share glasses of several different spirits with a friend, adding no ice and just a splash of water to bring out the whisky's flavor. (Don't forget to say "Slainte!", the local equivalent of "Cheers!".) If you're worried about tasting whisky on an empty stomach, you can prepare yourself with a meal in the adjacent restaurant.

The Shop

The Scotch Whisky Experience also has a shop where you'll find a large selection of whiskies and Scottish gifts. Like the restaurant and bar, the shop is open to anyone--not just to those who have taken the tour.

Where to find it: The Scotch Experience is at the top of the Royal Mile, just below Edinburgh Castle.

When to come: The Scotch Whisky Experience is open every day of the year except Christmas. Hours are normally 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., with extended hours during the summer season.

For more information, including tour prices, visit www.whisky-heritage.co.uk.

Interior photos copyright © The Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre.

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