Smyril Line: M/f Norröna

The old M/f Norröna is shown  in the fishing port of Seyðisfjörður on Iceland's eastern coast.(This harbor photo was taken from the town.)

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Cruise ships are pleasant enough, but for the true traveler, the most appealing ships are vessels that go somewhere--i.e., ships that carry passengers and freight to real destinations. Smyril Line's M/f Norröna is one such vessel. The Norröna connects Tórshavn, capital of the Faroe Islands, with ports in four countries: Hanstholm (Denmark), Bergen (Norway), Lerwick (Shetland Islands, UK), and Seyðisfjörður (Iceland).

It takes a week to make the circuit of the Norröna's five ports, not counting stopovers. And because you can break the journey into shorter segments, a Norröna voyage isn't just a cruise--it's a way to explore Denmark's Jutland, the Shetlands, coastal Norway, and Iceland according to your own schedule.

The ship and its accommodations

The Norröna is a car and passenger ferry similar to ferries on other European routes. It looks like a cruise ship or ocean liner, but two of the decks are designed to accommodate cars, trucks, or--more typically--a combination of vehicles and freight pallets. Vehicles enter the ship through a large hatch at the stern or bow and park bumper-to-bumper in the ship's cavernous interior.

Watertight automatic doors lead from the car decks to the passenger decks, which offer a variety of accommodations

The standard cabins with shower and toilet are pleasant enough. Try not to get an inside cabin if you suffer from claustrophobia--but if you do get stuck with one, you're likelier to sleep better than your neighbor whose porthole catches a 4 a.m. North Atlantic sunrise.

A couchette may be adequate if you're young, able to sleep anywhere, and willing to tolerate noise from groups of schoolchildren in adjacent mini-dormitories. (And if you're worried about the safety of your belongings, you can store valuables--or even a rucksack--in the baggage lockers near the purser's office.)

NOTE: A new Norröna went into service in 2003. I haven't yet had a chance to travel on the ship, but it should be a considerable improvement over the first-generation vessel, which--though comfortable enough--was beginning to show its age after 30 years.

Eating, drinking, and entertainment

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