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Campo San Barnaba

If you've seen David Lean's Summertime, a 1955 movie starring Katherine Hepburn, you'll remember the shop where Jane Hudson (the Hepburn character) sees a goblet of red Murano glass in the window of an antique shop owned by Renato de Rossi (played by Rossano Brazzi). The shop used in the film was set in a real storefront, which is still next door to the church on the Campo San Barnaba in Venice's district of Dorsoduro--although it's now a toy store where you're more likely to find sippy cups than Murano glass goblets.

The Campo San Barnaba has been featured in other movies, too: most notably Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, where the deconsecrated Church of San Barnaba played a library with a secret route to imaginary catacombs. (The ex-church is now a museum with replicas of machines designed by Leonardo da Vinci.)

Even if you don't like movies, you'll enjoy the Campo San Barnaba. It's a small but lively square with newsstands, bars, restaurants, and a canal along one side where you can see barges, workboats, ambulances, and other boats coming and going throughout the day.

An outpost of the upscale Grom gelateria chain faces the campo, and a vegetable barge or floating greengrocer is moored just around the corner on the canal.

Also nearby is the Hotel Pausania, which is a convenient place to stay if you like the neighborhood or are leaving on a cruise from the cruise port's San Basilio pier.

Here's what you'll see in our two satellite photo maps below:

Photo 1 looks down on the Campo San Barnaba and its church. Below the square, you can see the exit from a sotteportego or covered passage that feeds into the main pedestrian route to the Accademia Bridge, the Campo San Stefano, and the Piazza San Marco.

The campo's vegetable barge is around the corner on the fondamenta (right before the footbridge called the Ponte dei Pugni, or "Bridge of Fists", where rival clans staged public fistfights in the 17th Century). The footbridge leads into the Rio Terà Canal, a short but wide street with shops, bars, and restaurants that leads into the Campo Santa Margherita.

Photo 2 is a close-up view of the square. You'll see the former church on the left, and--right in front of it, next to the canal--the antique shop from Summertime that is now a toy store. The sotteportego to Accademia is underneath the off-white building along the back of the campo.

Just off the rear side of the square (and perpendicular to it) is a tiny cul-de-sac with a pleasant vacation apartment. To the right, along the Calle Lunga de San Barnaba, you'll find several restaurants and shops, including a delightful shop called Annalie Pizzi e Ricami that features locally-made linens, embroidered clothing, nightgowns, and other items at extremely reasonable prices.


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