San Michele Cemetery
Page 2 Continued from page 1

ABOVE: Vaporetti run to the island
almost constantly during All Saints' Week.
Segregation by sect
Most of San Michele's acreage is reserved for Catholics--a fact that's hardly
surprising in a country where Roman Catholics, practicing or otherwise, make up the vast
majority of the population. In
Venice: The Art of Living, Fr�d�ric Viteaux describes the
Catholic cemetery during All Saints' Week:
"A free vaporetto takes the inhabitants of the city from the Fondamenta Nuove
to the island. The women carry flowers--their figures swallowed up by pots of huge
chrsyanthemums, rumpled and white, yellow, and pink. They look like an army of flowers on
the march disembarking in front of the church and the Emiliani chapel, filing into the
right-angle lanes of the cemetery. The chrysanthemums advance like the forest in Macbeth.
The living have done their duty. They return to the vaporetto, satisfied. Perhaps the dead
are, too."
The island has two mini-graveyards for other Christian sects: the Greci or
Greek Orthodox cemetery, where Igor Stravisky and Sergei Diaghilev are buried; and the
Protestant graveyard, whose most famous resident is Ezra Pound. (Jews have their own
cemetery on the Lido, Venice's resort island.)
In contrast to the formal and beautifully tended Catholic gardens of graves, the Greci
and Protestant sections have an atmosphere of rustic decay. Some tombstones are covered in
moss; a few lean at precipitous angles; several have keeled over in a parody of those
whose deaths they commemorate.
The occasional English epitaph reminds visitors of a time
when the British upper classes regarded Venice as a home away from home. The most famous
inscription honors a Staffordshire man who was said to have "Left us in peace, Febry
2, 1910."
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