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From: Emerald Waterways cruise review: Nuremberg-Trier

Day 6: Moselle & Bernkastel (3)

Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler vineyard, Bernkastel

Walk to Burg Landshut, Bernkastel-Kues

After the wine-tasting, we had about two hours of free time before the evening's disembarkation briefing. We decided on a walk to the ruins of Burg Landshut, the castle overlooking Bernkastel and the Moselle.

Vineyards above Bernkastel-Kues

Sign to Bernkastel from Burg Landshut

On the way up through the vineyards, we saw a sign that pointed back toward the Old Town, so we figured that--with luck--we wouldn't get lost the way we did in Miltenberg.

View of Moselle River during walk to Burg Landshut, Bernkastel-Kues

As we climbed higher, we caught glimpses of Bernkastel's roofs and river vessels (including Emerald Star, on the far side of the Moselle) from the path.

Path to Landshut Castle, Bernkastel-Kues

Final path to Burg Landshut, Bernkastel-Kues

The walk was easy, with broad cobblestoned steps in the lower reaches and a paved road in the final stretch. (Later, we saw a man ascending the road in a motorcycle-style electric wheelchair with his wife providing extra horsepower from behind.)

Bench and stroller at Burg Landshut, Bernkastel-Kues

At the top of the road, a stroller was parked next to a bench. From here on, visitors had to climb metal steps to a walkway surrounding the ruined castle, which was undergoing renovation. (The castle was built in 1277 but was destroyed by a fire in 1692.)

Burg Landshut walkway

Coke machine at Burg Landshut, Bernkastel

A Coke machine was placed strategically along the walkway for visitors who might be thirsty after the long hike up to the castle. The price for a soda was reasonable by European standards: €2,--.

Note: Normally, the castle has a restaurant-café in the inner courtyard, but it was closed during our visit (probably because of the construction work).

Window at Burg Landshut, Bernkastel-Kues

A window in Burg Landshut's ruined walls offered a view of the Moselle, Kues (on the left), and Bernkastel's Altstadt.

Viewing terrace at Landshut Castle, Bernkastel-Kues

Cheryl Imboden at Burg Landshut, Bernkastel-Kues

A viewing terrace presented sweeping views of the town and river.

Parking lots in Bernkastel

From above, the Bernkastel riverfront was surprisingly ugly, with most of the flat land (other than the Altstadt itself) being devoted to parking lots.

Bernkastel's city fathers might want to consider gussying up the riverfront with flower beds, trees, and a pedestrian promenade to break up the expanse of asphalt.

Kues and Moselle River

EMERALD STAR in Bernkastel-Kues

The Kues riverfront was more attractive, thanks to a waterside park.

Panoramic view of Bernkastel-Kues and Moselle River from Burg Landshut

Before leaving Burg Landshut, we took this panoramic photo from the viewing terrace. (Click here and maximize your browser window for a larger image.)

Walk to Bernkastel from Burg Landshut

We walked downhill by a different route, following a road that passed St-Anna Kapelle (a.k.a. the Chapel of St. Anne), which was built in 1890 to replace a chapel from 1615.

Burg Landshut Express bus, Bernkastel-Kues

If we'd preferred riding to walking, we could have taken the Burg Landshut Express, a bus on a truck chassis that runs at hourly intervals during the day from April to October.

River ships and vineyards, Bernkastel-Kues

As we walked down through the steep vineyards, we could see that another ship, Tauck's Inspire, had moored next to Emerald Star.

Cheryl Imboden and EMERALD STAR, Bernkastel-Kues

We arrived back at our ship at 6:00 p.m. about two hours after the end of our Bernkastel walking tour.

Baked Alaska on EMERALD STAR

The evening's "Farewell Gala Dinner" featured a cruise-ship classic, Baked Alaska.


After dinner, we went for a walk. The Moselle's water was calm, offering clear reflections of Emerald Star and Inspire.

Note: River ships often tie up in pairs when there aren't enough berths for separate moorings. When this happens, passengers on the waterside ship (Inspire, in this case) walk to and from shore through the reception area of the landside vessel.

Barge on Moselle River, Bernkastel-Kues

Swans on River Moselle, Bernkastel-Kues

From the waterside park, we could see reflections of a passing barge and a cruising swan.

Floodlit Burg Landshut, Benkastel-Kues

On the opposite hillside, the floodlights of Burg Landshut came on as the sun began to set.

Bernkastel from Kues

Bernkastel Altstadt and Burg Landshut in the evening

The sun set quickly, and more lights were reflected in the river.

Traffic light in Bernkastel

After walking through the mostly modern district of Kues, we crossed the bridge to Bernkastel's Altstadt, where the traffic light on the waterfront had already been turned off for the night.

Bernkastel Markt at night

The Markt was deserted. Even the tourists were tucked up in their hotels before 11 p.m.

Illuminated fountain in Bernkastel

As we aproached a floodlight fountain in the Old Town, a nearby church bell rang 11 times. While the bell was ringing, a timer shut off the floodlights and the water in the fountain.

Night in Bernkastel-Kues, Germany

We crossed the bridge and went back to Emerald Star, which would spend the night in Bernkastel-Kues before sailing for Trier the next morning.

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Emerald Star day-by-day photo diary:
Day 1: Departure (Nuremberg)
Day 2: Bamberg
Day 3: Wurzburg
Day 4: Wertheim & Mittenberg
Day 5: Rhine & Koblenz
Day 6: Moselle & Bernkastel
Day 7: Trier
Day 8: Disembarkation (Trier)

Also see:
Pre-cruise stay: Erlangen
Pre-cruise stay: Nuremberg
Emerald Waterways cruise review: Nuremberg to Trier