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Emerald Star Cruise PhotosFrom: Emerald Waterways cruise review: Nuremberg-Trier Day 3: Würzburg
Emerald Star arrived in Würzburg around 10 a.m., tying up along the downtown waterfront behind a floating Chinese restaurant and casino.
The crew quickly set up the ship's gangway.
A sailor brought the ship's bicycles ashore and parked them on the riverside promenade for passengers who wanted to go exploring before lunch.
Our sightseeing tour didn't depart until 12:45 p.m., so we went ashore and walked along the Main riverfront. Across the river, the Marienberg fortress loomed over the city.
Steps led up to the Alte Mainbrücke or Old Main Bridge (left) and downtown Würzburg.
The bridge was quiet at this hour, with only a few dogwalkers and tourists crossing the river on foot.
We photographed Emerald Star and another ship, with a tram crossing the river overhead, from a viewing platform on the Alte Mainbrücke.
In Würzburg's business district, which began next to the Alte Mainbrücke, a florist shop had set up many of its wares outdoors.
It seemed like every block in downtown Würzburg had at least one bakery or pastry shop.
Trams came at frequent intervals, bringing commuters and shoppers from outlying neighborhoods and suburbs.
Dogs and their two-legged companions shopped in the stores downtown (including large department stores).
Later, after we'd returned to the ship and had an early lunch, we went ashore to join the tour bus that would take us to Würzburg's Residenz.
Our tour of the Würzburg Residenz began on a large square uphill from Würzburg's business district. (Click here and maximize your browser window for a larger panoramic image.) The Residence, which was built between 1720 and 1744, served as the palace of Würzburg's Catholic prince bishops from the 18th Century until they were kicked out of power in 1806. Its most notable feature is a vast ceiling fresco by the Venetian artist Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.
Our tour began at the Franconiabrunnen, or Franconian Fountain, on the Residenzplatz.
Our tour guide warned us that we couldn't take photos inside the Residenz, so--to borrow a phrase from Victorian novelists--a veil descended upon the scene as we entered the building.
After touring the Residenz, we visited the gardens behind the palace.
The gardens were filled with flower beds and visitors.
The topiary in the gardens held a surprise: statues that were intertwined with the tree trunks.
We'd signed up for an optional wine-tasting in the Staatlicher Hofkeller next to the Residenz, so we reported to our wine guide at the Franconiabrunnen at 2:30 p.m.
Next, we crossed the street and descended a staircase into a warren of vaulted cellars lit by candles.
With our fellow oenophiles, we gathered in front of huge casks while our guide supplied an historic overview of the former Prince Bishops' wine cellars.
Next, we were led to a cellar with tables where we sat for the wine-tasting.
Wine glasses and rye bread were waiting for us.
A menu listed the three Franconian white wines we'd be sampling: a Müller-Thurgau (dry), a Silvaner (dry), and a Riesling (semi-dry).
Bottoms up!
After the wine-tasting, our guide led us downhill to Würzburg's city center, pointing out sights along the way.
We then had nearly two hours of free time, which we spent exploring the city's lively downtown.
It was a warm, sunny day, and a couple took advantage of the weather by eating ice cream on a fountain in the Marktplatz. Tip: Eis, or ice cream, is a bargain in Germany, whether you prefer it in a cone or a cup.
In late afternoon, the Alte Mainbrücke (which had been nearly deserted earlier) was packed with people, most of whom appeared to be locals on their way home from work, school, or shopping.
A couple enjoyed wine on the bridge with Würzburg's vineyards as a backdrop.
"All aboard" time was 6:15 p.m., so we left the Old Main Bridge behind us and returned to our ship.
Emerald Star departed Würzburg at 6:15 p.m, followed by a Uniworld ship, River Ambassador.
We left the Marienberg fortress behind as we cruised toward Wertheim.
Soon, Emerald Star passed the Alte Mainbrücke and Würzburg's Altstadt.
As we got ready for dinner, we watched the ship's progress on the bowcam channel of our cabin's TV.
On deck, we grabbed this photo of a Deutsche Bahn regional train passing vineyards near Würzburg.
At dinner, the passing scenery included barges, bucolic villages, and swans.
More swans decorated our dessert plates (in this case, with "white chocolate mousse, soaked brown bread, and currant jelly").
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