To
experience the "real Venice" (and yes, it's very much alive), head into the side
streets away from the major thoroughfares like the Strada Nova and the big
squares such as the Piazza San Marco.
You'll
find an endless succession of pedestrian streets, canals, bridges, campi, and
surprises--such as the Squero di San Trovaso, or gondola workshop, near the San Trovaso Church
and the Moorish sculptures on the Campo dei Mori
in Cannaregio, which are just a
few doors away from an apartment building that once housed Tintoretto's
workshop.
Just
as important, you'll see how Venice's citizens live. Today, only about
55,000
people reside in the historic center (compared to an estimated 170,000 in the
heyday of the Venetian Republic), but they still hang out in neighborhood bars,
buy produce from local vendors, and hang their laundry from clotheslines above
the street. If you're lucky, you'll encounter a friendly dog or cat, as Cheryl
did in the inset photo above.
Tip: Take a good Venice street
map
with you when you go exploring. It's easy to get lost and wander around in
circles (though you can't go too far afield, since you'll hit water eventually).
Related article and page:
Maintaining Venice's Canals
Fisheye Venice: Campi and Canals
The Most Secret Walk in Venice: Calle Giazzo