Right Bank: Montmartre
Where to Stay in Paris
ABOVE: The three-star
Arts is on the southern slope of
Montmartre, about a block west of the Abbesses Métro stop. INSET BELOW: Two
budget hotels, the Roma Sacré-Coeur and the
Hotels in Montmartre (18th
Montmartre is "village Paris" at its best, and we find it
irresistible. It's a few kilometers from the center of town (and at least 45
minutes from the Seine if you're walking downhill), but several
Ligne 12--offer good connections to major sightseeing areas. (Mind you,
if you're like us, you may find it hard to leave the neighborhood.)
Montmartre is also convenient to
the Gare du Nord, which is served by
Eurostar, Thalys, and the
RER "B" line from
Charles de Gaulle and
Orly airports. If you're a
shopper, you can easily reach Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, and other major
stores in the 9th arrondissement on foot.
Montmartre consists of two main
The southern side of the
Butte or hill, below Sacré-Coeur, which is
the more "villagey" part with narrow streets, tiny shops and restaurants,
and (how can we not mention them?) the grocery store and café from the film
The northern slope of the hill,
which has less of a village atmosphere but is a pleasant, prosperous
residential neighborhood with a far lower ratio of tourists to residents.
You'll also find a neighborhood on
top of the Butte, around Sacré-Coeur and the Place de Tertre, but it's
small and tends to be overrun by mass-market tourist crowds.
For more information on accommodations in the neighborhood, see
our Hotels in Montmartre article (which also
discusses holiday apartments and has links to firsthand reports on Montmartre
apartments that we've rented).
From the Gare du Nord, it's about a 20- or 25-minute walk to
most Montmartre hotels.
Montmartre is in a single arrondissement: the 18th. Don't be
deceived by properties that claim to be in Montmartre when they're
merely near the district.
Booking.com represents an apartment hotel,
Adagio Paris Montmartre,
that's worth considering if you want your own kitchen. Rates are reasonable, the
location couldn't be better (it's at the end of a quiet, atmospheric lane on
the southern slope of the Butte), and there's no minimum stay requirement.
If you sleep here, you can pick up croissants from one of the many bakeries
nearby and enjoy breakfast in your kitchenette-equipped studio or apartment.
Two budget hotels are
especially noteworthy, if only because of their locations: The
Timhotel Montmartre is on a lovely tree-shaded square near the Abbesses
Métro stop, and the
Hôtel Sacré-Coeur is directly above a café on Montmartre's northern
slope where you can enjoy breakfast on a landscaped terrace next to the
street and the public stairs that lead to the Lamarck-Coulaincourt Métro
stop. (It's the kind of café where you're likely to see neighborhood
having breakfast with their dogs.)
The main drag along the very bottom edge of Montmartre (the
boulevards of Clichy and Rochechouart) is heavy on discount stores and sex
shops. This doesn't faze the French, who contentedly push their baby
strollers to supermarkets that are within ogling distance of strip joints,
but it might be a concern if you'd rather not have the
Musée de l'Érotisme or a peep show
down the block.
CDG, Orly, Beauvais Airports