Accessible Venice

ABOVE: A number of bridges in Venice have wheelchair lifts, although the lifts don't always work.

Disabled travelers are frequently intimidated by Venice. The city was built long before "equal access" became part of the architect's vocabulary, and the city is dotted with hundreds of bridges that require climbing and descending steps. It's no wonder that many physically disabled tourists are tempted to skip Venice when traveling through Europe. And that's a shame, because it's certainly possible to enjoy Venice with a wheelchair, walker, or crutches if you know what to expect and plan your touring strategy accordingly.

Step 1: Plan ahead.

Many hotels in Venice have elevators, but some don't (especially in the lower price  ranges). And in some hotels, you may have to wrestle your way up several sets of steps just to reach the elevator. Because of this, it's a good idea to find out if a hotel is accessible before you make a reservation.

Annie Mackin, author of Wheelchair Travel Through Europe, recommends the Minotel Diana in Calle Specchieri, San Marco 449, I-30124 Venezia, Tel. 39 41 520 69 11. She describes a room with an accessible writing desk and a bathroom with a roll-in shower and accessible toilet and sink. This hotel is just 50 meters from St. Mark's Square. (To learn how you can order Ms. Mackin's book by mail, see the next page.)

The not infrequent acqua alta or "high water" between late October and early spring is another thing to consider. When high tides and winds in the Adriatic push water into the Venice Lagoon, the result is flooding of St. Mark's Square and other low-lying areas. Pedestrians can don rubber boots or step onto temporary wooden walkways, but if you're in a wheelchair, you could be stuck in your hotel until the tide goes down.

Step 2: Visit the Tourist Office.

The Azienda di Promozione Turistica can lend you a key to the small number of wheelchair lifts that are scattered around Venice and its islands. (In the historic center, most of these are in or near San Marco.) The Tourist Office's headquarters are in a freestanding white building by the public gardens just off the Piazza San Marco; you'll find branch offices in the Venice railway station, the arrivals hall at Marco Polo Airport, and various seasonal locations around town. Caveat: The lifts may not be working at any given moment, and they're a bit clumsy to use, but they're worth a try if your companions aren't up to the job of hauling you up and down bridge steps.

In the past, the Tourist Office offered a free map (see inset photos) with information for walking-impaired travelers. The map had a yellow overlay to show areas that were considered accessible. (To see an excerpt from that map, click the thumbnail image.). Ask for the No. 1 map, which has "Venezia" on the front and "Lido" on the back. Unfortunately, the map is no longer available, so you'll need to buy a standard map  and study it carefully to see which streets can be reached from vaporetto stops without crossing bridges. (I recommend the pocket-sized Touring Club Italiano's Centrocittą Venezia 1:5000 map, which shows the historic center in great detail and is available from the Tourist Office and bookstores in Venice.)

NOTES:

• Some bridges, such as the Ponte delle Guglie (shown on the next page), have special half-height stairs that can be negotiated in wheelchairs. A sign warns that a companion is required--and after watching porters struggle with delivery carts on the bridges, I'd be inclined to second that precaution.

• The railroad station has a long flight of steps leading down to the water. However, a sloping paved path connects the train platforms with the waterfront. This is to the right of the station as you face it, or to your left (near the restroom wing) as you approach the station from the train platforms.

• Several years ago, the Venice city government announced a plan to install wheelchair ramps on 80 bridges in the historic center, along with gates at the ends of narrow alleys that open onto canals. Many of these are now in place, especially in high-traffic areas.

Next page: Accessible transport, information resources